Deck-O-Seal Expansion Joint Sealant for Pool Decks | 96 oz
Shipping times are estimates, not guarantees.
Couldn't load pickup availability
● 6 in stock30-day returns Secure checkout
Have a question about this part?
Ask about fit, specs or shipping and get an instant answer.
Goes with this part
CA P65 Warning: Cancer and reproductive harm. www.p65warnings.ca.gov
When the flexible filler in a pool deck expansion joint dries out, shrinks or pulls away from the concrete, water gets underneath the slab and the joint edges start to spall. Deck-O-Seal Pour Grade is the two-part polysulfide sealant that replaces it. You pour it in, it finds its own level, and it cures to a rubber that moves with the slab instead of cracking away from it. Sold in 96 oz kits in Gray (4701032), Desert Tan (4701033) and Dura-White (4701031).
- Your joint filler has shrunk or split: The old sealant no longer touches both faces of the joint.
- The joint is horizontal: Pool deck, patio or walkway expansion joints. Self-leveling means no tooling.
- The joint is 1/4" to 1" wide: Anything narrower cannot be sealed with this product.
- The joint is above the waterline: Below the waterline needs Deck-O-Seal 125 or Gun Grade.
- Your deck moves seasonally: Handles 25% joint movement in either direction without splitting.
- 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep: about 231 linear feet.
- 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep: about 106 linear feet — the most common pool deck joint.
- 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep: about 58 linear feet.
- 1" wide x 1/2" deep: about 29 linear feet.
- Gray (4701032): Standard grey concrete and most poured decks.
- Desert Tan (4701033): Warm-toned pavers, sandstone coping and coloured concrete.
- Dura-White (4701031): White coping, light travertine and bright decks.
- Backer rod or joint filler: Sets the sealant depth, which must stay between 1/4" and 1/2".
- 2" masking tape: Applied along both joint faces before pouring, removed before the sealant sets.
- A drill with a slow-speed paddle: The two parts need a full 10 minutes of mixing.
- Xylene or toluene: For cleaning tools immediately after use.
Note: None of these are included in the kit. The kit itself contains the 96 oz base can, the setting agent, a stirring paddle and an applicator squeeze bottle. The joint must be clean, dry and fully cured concrete — 28 days minimum on new pours.
My old joint filler is crumbling — do I have to dig all of it out?
Yes. The joint has to be clean, dry and free of the old material, dust and laitance for the new sealant to bond. Deck-O-Seal adheres well to bare concrete, but not to whatever is left of the last sealant.
Can I do this myself, or do I need a contractor?
It is a realistic weekend job on a residential deck. The parts people get wrong are mixing time and joint depth: mix the two components a full 10 minutes with a slow-speed drill, and use backer rod so the sealant sits between 1/4" and 1/2" deep. Under-mixing leaves soft spots that never cure and have to be dug back out.
What happens if it rains?
Keep it dry for a minimum of 24 hours after pouring. Rain before that will affect the cure. It is tack-free in about 4 hours and firm within 24 hours at 77°F, longer when it is cooler.
Can I use this in the joint between the coping and the pool shell, under the water?
No. Deck-O-Seal Pour Grade cannot be used underwater. W.R. Meadows specifies Deck-O-Seal 125 or Deck-O-Seal Gun Grade for joints at or below the waterline.
Will it stay this colour?
It is non-staining and UV-stable — it will not become brittle, chalk or discolour from sun or heat, and pool chemicals do not affect it. Do not paint over it; paint is not recommended on any Deck-O-Seal product.
How much working time do I get once it is mixed?
About one hour at 77°F. The product cannot be resealed and saved, so mix a kit only when you are ready to pour the whole thing.
Can I use it on an asphalt driveway joint?
No. Deck-O-Seal is not compatible with asphalt and cannot be used in asphalt pavement or against asphalt-impregnated joint filler.